“Speed now illuminates reality whereas light once gave objects of the world their shape.” - Paul Virilio
Odd how we have selective vision, we see things that are right in front of us, and then one day new things begin to appear. As if they hadn't been there all along. During this past month I have been struck by this phenomenon. I’m settling in and able to see more and notice as I’ve learned a little bit about getting around and recognizing things here in Saudi Arabia. Things like speed cameras, and how to read the speed limit in arabic! I got my driving license and proudly joined the growing ranks of women that are driving now in Saudi Arabia. The ban on female drivers was lifted by the Saudi Government in 2018. I transitioned from bike riding to driving, and am enjoying the freedom to move around this country at a faster pace, on my own. Driving has helped me understand this place better and to notice things and contemplate things that I would not have been able to otherwise. If, as philosopher Paul Virilio wrote “speed now illuminates reality” whereas light once did then driving is a necessary step towards acclimating one's point of view to the objects of the world.
I should mention the process of getting my US license converted to a Saudi license. Luckily this was rather straightforward for me. I had to get my license translated and attested, get a medical exam, pay the licensing fee through the government app, and then attend a meeting at one of the local driving schools. All of this is not possible without a phone, the connection to trackable technology is a key feature in Saudi Arabian life. Having a phone is essential. In essence all of your government documents and permissions are security checked through a double check system resulting in lots of unique codes being sent to your Saudi phone number. I should also say that you can’t get a phone without a beach account or maybe it's the other way around… but either way everyone has a phone. Even Abdu, a Sudanese bedouin camel shepherd, has a phone and he lives in a tent with a herd of over 80 camels and migrates through different parts of the desert all year round. The phone is not a mark of wealth. It is a necessity, and a force of change in this part of the world (as well as everywhere i guess…). I celebrated my birthday by getting my driving license. I thought this was a way to feel connected to my current home and to celebrate the changing culture. Up early to celebrate the day I booked a taxi to take me to Jeddah at 5:30AM, arriving at the Dallah driving school promptly at 7AM. I was directed to the women’s side of the school and sat in a room filled with women in hijabs and abayas that were waiting for their lessons. I was quickly moved into the main office where I waited for the women that would check my paperwork. There was a very stylish looking young woman wearing camouflaged military fatigues, pants and a shirt. As I waited the other women (only women working on this side of the school) offered me coffee and chocolate. We smiled at each other and I said hello “Sabah Al Khair”, and thank you “Shukran”. My paperwork was checked and within minutes I had a shiny Saudi drivers license.
I rented my first car when my husband Peter visited Saudi Arabia. We drove to Thuwal, a nearby fishing village for a fresh fish dinner at a traditional Saudi restaurant and then to KAEC (King Abdullah’s Economic City), a town like KAUST (gated and exclusive) to see the Liv Golf extravaganza and beach party. The golf tournament was lavish with lots of areas set up for selfies, close access to many famous golfers, golf carts escorting groups of people to various bars and beach clubs, a fireworks display , and lots of fancy juices and Red Bull. I also drove back and forth to the airport in Jeddah to retrieve Peter’s lost bags. Thanks to Saudia for finding them and to the Apple AirTags that helped us encourage the airline to look in the Charles De Gaul airport. Showing where the bags were - lost in Paris and then arriving in Jeddah. Driving is definitely a little crazy here with lots of speed and cell phone cameras, roundabouts, u turns instead of left turns, driving on the shoulder, and passing fast on the right or left or wherever. It is somewhat surprising to see this type of aggression on the road because in person most people here are soft spoken and exceedingly polite. I also learned that as a driver you can be fined for eating or drinking while driving. Which put a cramp in my style of driving with a Tim Horton coffee.
A few more thoughts inspired by my change in velocity from walking to biking to driving. Dramatic shifts in speed highlighted contrasts that are embedded in life here.
Desert and Sea
There is the desert and the sea, dry to wet, yellow/orange to green/blue, barren plains to color and life filled coral reefs. I have had the opportunity to explore the desert with friends here that have made friends with local Bedouin shepherds and the camel herd owners, spending evenings in the desert sharing stories, drinking camel milk, dry dusty, quiet, long views. In contrast to time I spend in the sea, up close with fish and coral and pockets of life seen through the narrow scope of my goggles.
Modesty and Abundance
There is the culture of modesty and generosity. The conservative looking clothing, and veiled figures that appear guarded and withdrawn alongside a generosity, warmth and welcoming spirit of people eager to talk and share experiences and ideas about the world, and food, and family.
Camping and Luxury
Camping has been a life-long joy for me but Saudi Camping takes the comfort and luxury that one might seek in the wilderness and brings it to a next level version of glamping. Saudi homes are private, often walled in with yards that are covered or not at all visible to the street. The window’s are shaded and life at home is very private. You have to wonder where all of the fabulous styles of women's clothes are being worn and it is in private homes. The privacy of the home contrasts with the camping or picnicking in public, in the evenings on the beach or in the desert large caravans of families sharing camping or picnic sites. Green spaces alongside roadways are filled with families enjoying being outside in the cool evening air. Thes public picnics and campsites are open to the environment with elaborate grill setups for cooking coffee, burning Oud Bakhor (wood soaked in perfume), and shisha.
